Festa dei Ceri – Festival of the Candles

The Festa dei Ceri, or Festival of the Candles, is a centuries-old tradition celebrated annually on May 15th in the picturesque town of Gubbio, Italy. The festival has a rich history that dates back to the 12th century and is deeply rooted in the town’s cultural and religious heritage.

Legend has it that during a plague in the 12th century, St. Ubaldo, the town’s patron saint, appeared to the people of Gubbio in a dream and instructed them to carry candles and march through the streets in his honor. The people did as they were told, and miraculously, the plague subsided. From then on, the people of Gubbio have celebrated the Festa dei Ceri every year to pay homage to St. Ubaldo and the other saints.

The festival involves a race up Mount Ingino, the mountain that overlooks the town, by three teams, each carrying an enormous wooden structure topped with a statue of a saint: St. Ubaldo, St. George, and St. Anthony. The race is a highly charged spectacle, with cheering crowds, flag-waving, and live music.

Preparations for the festival begin weeks in advance, with the town coming together to build the enormous structures and decorate the streets with banners, flags, and flowers. Each team has its own color and supporters, with the town divided into three factions for the occasion.

On the day of the festival, the streets of Gubbio are transformed into a sea of color, as the three teams, each with hundreds of supporters, gather to begin the race. The runners, known as ceraioli, are dressed in traditional costumes and wear wooden shoes, adding to the atmosphere of the event.

The race itself is a grueling test of strength and endurance, with the ceraioli carrying the wooden structures, each weighing over 400 kilograms, up the steep slopes of Mount Ingino. The route is 4 kilometers long and includes challenging sections that require the runners to climb steep stairs and navigate tight corners.

The race is accompanied by live music and cheering from the crowds, who line the streets and balconies to watch the action. The atmosphere is electric, with the sound of drums and horns adding to the excitement.

As the ceraioli approach the finish line, they raise their structures in the air and make a final sprint to the top of the mountain, where they place the statues of the saints in their designated spots. The moment is met with cheers and applause from the crowds, and the runners are hailed as heroes.

The festival doesn’t end with the race, however. The rest of the day is filled with feasting, drinking, and merrymaking, as the people of Gubbio come together to celebrate their community and traditions.

The Festa dei Ceri is a source of immense pride for the people of Gubbio and represents their strong sense of community and devotion to tradition. It is a must-see event for visitors to the region and provides a unique insight into the cultural heritage of this beautiful corner of Italy.

In addition to the race itself, the Festa dei Ceri is marked by a number of other rituals and events. The day begins with a Mass at the cathedral, where the statues of the saints are blessed before the race. After the Mass, the ceraioli gather in the town square for a flag-raising ceremony, which signals the start of the race.

During the race, each team is accompanied by a band of musicians playing traditional music on drums, flutes, and horns. The music adds to the excitement of the event and helps to keep the ceraioli motivated as they climb the steep slopes of Mount Ingino.

As well as the race, there are a number of other events and activities taking place throughout the day. These include traditional markets, street performances, and food stalls selling local delicacies such as truffles, salumi, and cheeses.

One of the highlights of the festival is the “Alzata dei Ceri”, or the “raising of the candles”. This takes place in the evening, after the race has finished, and involves the ceraioli carrying their wooden structures through the town to the cathedral. Once there, they place the candles in front of the altar and light them, symbolizing the triumph of good over evil.

The Festa dei Ceri is a truly unique event, and one that has been celebrated in Gubbio for over 800 years. It is a testament to the town’s rich history and cultural heritage, and a reflection of the strong sense of community and tradition that exists here.

Visitors to the festival can expect to be swept up in the excitement and spectacle of the event, and to witness firsthand the passion and dedication of the people of Gubbio. For those interested in history and culture, it is an experience not to be missed.